Build Thread G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION


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Thread: G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION

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    Default G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION

    Since it's 06/02, I thought today would be perfect to start this thread. IMO, This is the most cost-effective and capable lathe for the buck. It should be even more capable after CNC conversion.

    http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-x...al-Lathe/G0602

    G0602 UNCRATING:
    http://crevicereamer.com/Page_86.html

    G0602 TEARDOWN, CLEANUP:
    http://crevicereamer.com/Page_87.html


    I intend to CNC the Grizzly G0602 in 3 steps:

    1: Quick, temporary and cheap using the stock screws.

    2: Permanent mounting using Acme screws. Almost everything changes, and the X stepper will become a 381, but most of the Step One parts transfer upward.

    3: Drop-in ball screws upgrade, which will fit the same mounts as the Acme uses.

    The metal hasn't arrived, so I'll just bring you up to date with progress so far. Ultimately, this will morph into a mini Horizontal Machining Center.

    The CNC flood cooling stand is not finished yet--still has some bells and whistles to add, (Electrical wiring/Accessory storage/Computer & CNC electronics/Final flood system & enclosure) but it's useable for manual turning. I am quite pleased so far, with its stability, rigidity and functionality:



    http://crevicereamer.com/Page_89.html

    So far, I have added to the lathe:

    A $120 AXA QC wedge toolpost set from tools4cheap. It seems to be very rigid and well-made. I have no complaints:
    http://www.tools4cheap.net/products.php?cat=9

    A $22 Cam-Lock tail stock:


    A $99 Grizzly 4 jaw scroll chuck:

    http://www.grizzly.com/products/5-4-...ll-Chuck/G9834

    And $3 manual turning stop:


    http://crevicereamer.com/Page_88.html

    I will do this conversion in three steps because:

    1. Some of you may want to do a cheap stock screw conversion. I consider this temporary, but it could probably do quite a bit of work for awhile. It's also a good way to let the CNC take care of turning and threading the screws that follow.

    2. Acme: This is a less expensive route than ball screws, and some may want to go this way.

    3. Ball screws: Of course this is the most desirable path, albeit a little more expensive.

    I've designed the parts to be maximally transferable upward from each step.

    Home switches and threading indexer will be Hall effect sensors. I don't use limit switches for steppers.

    1) STOCK SCREWS
    This least expensive and temporary option will give capability to CNC turn the screws for step two.
    A. Most of Option One components, including mechanical drive parts, will transfer to Options 2 and 3.
    B. Motor mounts are simplified for rapid installation and quick functionality. Some parts will not transfer.
    C. Spindle index and Home switches transfer upward.
    D. Motor cables transfer upward with slight modification.
    E. Flood cooling transfers in toto.

    Electronics:
    G540, Modified Keling 270 motor for X, Keling 381 motor for Z, Keling 48V PSU, Hall Effect indexing sensor and Home switches.
    Estimated total electronics cost: $450

    First up will be stock screw conversion--Just waiting for the metal.

    CR.

    Similar Threads:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION-100_4374-copy_edited-jpg   G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION-100_4168_edited-jpg   G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION-100_4618_edited-jpg   G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION-100_4505_edited-jpg  

    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-04-2010 at 01:00 PM. Reason: Add pic attachments
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    Looking for ward to your updates CR.

    How much space is there for a ball nut for the cross slide? I have a roton ballscrew on my 7x Z axis, and have a small roton ballscrew for the X, but haven't unstalled it as there is not quite enough space. Still debating whether the mill some more space and fit it. The Acme I currently have is a PITA as I used two nuts, but they need constant backlash adjustment. The Roton nut would also have backlash, but at least it would be repeatable (hopefully).

    Regards,
    Mark


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    Awesome. I read your website over and over when I was starting my lathe project. Looking forward to this.



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    Quote Originally Posted by RotarySMP View Post
    Looking for ward to your updates CR.

    How much space is there for a ball nut for the cross slide? I have a roton ballscrew on my 7x Z axis, and have a small roton ballscrew for the X, but haven't unstalled it as there is not quite enough space. Still debating whether the mill some more space and fit it. The Acme I currently have is a PITA as I used two nuts, but they need constant backlash adjustment. The Roton nut would also have backlash, but at least it would be repeatable (hopefully).
    Hi Mark. The X cavity is 1 inch deep by 1 1/8 inch wide. You would think a 1 inch square Roton would fit, but the return pipe adds almost 1/4 inch to it. THAT won't fit into the trough without some machining.

    My conversion will NOT require machining of the lathe to fit. There ARE a number of tapped holes, but that's it. You'll have to wait until at least the Acme conversion to see it though.

    I will be making some Delrin nuts for the Acme conversion.

    CR.

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    Quote Originally Posted by will gilmore View Post
    Awesome. I read your website over and over when I was starting my lathe project. Looking forward to this.
    Thanks Will! Compared to YOUR lathe project, this is a minor venture. I'm really pleased to hear that I played a small part in helping you.

    CR.

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    Step One will use the stock bearings:

    I WAS going to replace the X bearings, but their 25mm size is weird and hard to find. The stock thrust bearing seems OK, and adding a washer under the shaft nut tightens it up and eliminates a lot of backlash. It will have to serve:


    Here's the 17 TPI X axis screw, in its 1 inch deep x 1 1/8 inch wide cavity:


    And its cast iron nut:


    The Z shaft-end bearing is just a brass bushing. Some extra lube and it's good to go. Longevity is a question mark though.


    Driving this rough half nut with stock 12 TPI Z screw might involve horrendous backlash. Mach3 Backlash Compensation may be put to an extreme test. We'll see. I may take it apart and attempt to smooth up the threads:


    Again, I consider Step One to be temporary. It wouldn't be hard to make an actual bearing block for Z, to hold some good ball bearings though.

    CR.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION-100_4601_edited-jpg   G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION-100_4092_edited-jpg   G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION-100_4086_edited-jpg   G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION-100_4111_edited-jpg  

    G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION-100_4119_edited-copy-jpg  
    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-04-2010 at 11:30 AM. Reason: Add pic attachments
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    Just ordered THIS $99 off-lease recertified computer:



    http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...486&CatId=1888

    to live in the HMC stand and run Mach3. UPS shipping = $16. Estimated delivery date 6/7/10. 2.8 GHZ is plenty of speed, 512 MB is lots of memory, 40GB HD, CDROM, new keyboard/optical mouse and no frills. 12 month warranty. I will install Windows XP onto it.

    CR.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION-m975-10138-main-jh-jpg  
    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-04-2010 at 07:10 PM. Reason: Add pic.
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    Looks like the metal will arrive same day as the computer:

    Your package is on time with a scheduled delivery date of 06/07/2010, UPS.
    CR.

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    Congrats on your first build thread walt.
    Nice job so far.
    Hoss

    Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- [URL]http://www.g0704.com[/URL]


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    Quote Originally Posted by hoss2006 View Post
    Congrats on your first build thread walt.
    Nice job so far.
    Hoss
    Thanks Dan!

    Like almost everyone else here, I'm just following a trail of YOUR incredibly large footsteps.

    CR.

    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-04-2010 at 10:36 AM.
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    Here are the Electronics for Stage One:


    From top left:X Stepper, Z Stepper, 48V PSU
    G540
    X home switch, Threading indexer, Z home switch, Spindle motor control relay.

    The 48V spindle relay will control the 20A motor contactor on and off by Mach3. The Hall effect switches and sensor will run on a 25V Voltage divider circuit from the PSU, and plug directly into the G540 inputs with no other circuitry necessary.

    That's everything but the Flood Cooling pump relay. That relay has already been mounted into an electrical box. No, the box isn't rusty, that's just a flash effect:


    And that electrical box has been mounted to the HMC Stand:


    The Pump relay will control an outlet on the other side of HMC into which pump will plug:


    CNC Stages 2 and 3 will use exactly the same electronics--Except the X motor will change to a 381oz. instead of a 270 oz.

    CR.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION-100_4633-jpg   G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION-100_4635_edited-jpg   G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION-100_4636_edited-jpg   G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION-100_4639_edited-jpg  

    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-06-2010 at 12:28 AM. Reason: Add pic.
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    Progress: Got all the electrical wiring done on the HMC stand.

    http://crevicereamer.com/Page_89.html

    CONNECTING THE Z AXIS:

    PROBLEM:
    The Helical coupler's 3/8 inch bore will not go over the threaded end of the Z screw. I could bore it out, but then it might mess up the threaded end.

    SOLUTION:
    Thread thecoupler to match. Turned out to be a 10M x 1.5 tap, which happened to be in my HF cheapo tap set:





    HF tap set $10. Having the right tap on hand when I needed it--Priceless! Gonna do the same thing for the X screw.


    FIRST TEST:

    The battery is weak, but here's a test of carriage movement with Z axis chucked up in a drill. Click on video to play:



    CR.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION-100_4648_edited-jpg   G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION-100_4649_edited-jpg  
    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-06-2010 at 04:55 PM.
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    loving this keep the updates coming!



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    Thanks Reed!

    The electrical system is now finished. Here is the Computer/CNC electronics side.
    That's the Master Switch on the right. FC relay is inside the covered junction box. All of the outlets are turned off by the Master Switch, except one:


    And the Flood Cooling side. The flood cooling pump (Center outlet) is controlled by Mach3 through the relay--or by the manual switch. That covered junction box on the left will soon be partially buried under the wooden accessory cabinet. The last outlet on right is ALWAYS hot:


    This is what you want the tester to look like, on each outlet, when wiring is finished:


    CR.

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    For flood cooling manifold, I am using this Grizzly magnetic base:

    http://grizzly.com/products/Magnetic...nt-Hoses/G9810

    It would cost almost $35 just to buy all that locline, nozzles and valves. AND it's a 175 pound pull base. Even though I will probably only use one hose, I consider it a teriffic bargain. The single hose manifold costs $6 less and only has a 125 pound pull base. I will use it wrapped in a plastic bag though, for swarf removal.

    Removing the supplied fluted tubing inlet allows a standard NPT 1/8 inch pipe nipple to be screwed in.



    CR.

    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-07-2010 at 07:59 AM. Reason: Add pic
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    I find these lead screw observations to be interesting:

    A 17 Turns Per Inch lead screw (Stock X axis) running at 1000 RPM will yield travel speed of about 59 inches per minute.

    A 12 TPI screw (Stock Z axis) at 1K RPM yields 83 IPM.

    An 8 TPI Acme screw at 1K RPM yields 125 IPM

    A 5 TPI Ball screw at 1K RPM yields 200 IPM.


    After the last video, I turned the Z screw by hand. It was very hard to turn. This made me wonder if a 381 oz stepper would be enough to drive the stock screw.

    Upon further experimentation, it developed that when the half nut lever,


    is clamped down tightly, there's a binding on the screw and it's hard to turn. Loosening up the lever slightly makes a world of difference.

    My cordless drill has a torque chuck adjustment. This can be set, for example, so that a drywall screw will cease turning when it has reached the required tightness. Setting the drill for lowest torque should make a good test.

    In this video, the drill torque is set to 1, the lowest point. Set at 1, a slight squeeze of my hand will stop the drill spindle and it just clicks. Here we are also timing the speed over a set 10 inches. Sorry for the long delay, the drill safety was ON:



    NO CLICKS! A 381 should be PLENTY of motor. Fourteen seconds to move the carriage 10 inches with a 12 TPI screw = 42.5 IPM and 510 RPM.

    With the lever clamped down all the way it won't move at all on 1. Clicks until setting #4.

    Not bad for a depleted battery. This test WAS supposed to be done with a freshly charged battery. Charger was plugged in overnight. Seems that it's not enough to just plug charger into battery--You have to ALSO plug the OTHER end into wall outlet--DUH! Life is so complicated.

    CR.

    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-08-2010 at 04:24 PM. Reason: Add pic.
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    I have a need for speed! Hooked up a faster drill on a better coupling shaft:


    And it runs twice as fast. That freight train is coming right at you! So as Samuel L Jackson said in Jurassic Park: "Hold onto your butts!"




    1028 RPM & about 86 IPM.

    CR.

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    For some reason, Photobucket will only display the "Hold on to your butts" video at half speed. You can see the difference in the Video after it. They should both move the same speed. I have tried to fix it, but so far no luck.

    Metal and computer have arrived! Uploading pics now. Back shortly.

    CR.

    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-08-2010 at 11:59 AM.
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    UPS left this on my sidewalk:


    What a load! those metal packages are HEAVY--Notice how the computer box is starting to crush.

    The computer was well packed:








    The all-important parallel port front & center:


    It will live HERE:




    The keyboard and mouse will live here:


    Since the KB table has to be able to tilt out of the way, both keyboard and mouse must be contained. I made these mounts out of crate strapping--Wonderful stuff. Good thing I'm not a packrat!


    Turns out, an optical mouse does not work well on a hard surface. Swapped it out for a ball-mouse--That works fine on the tile. Have the laser mouse on my mouse pad as I type this and I'm loving it.


    Here, the KB table, along with mouse and keyboard, is tilted up to its max:


    Let's fire it up:




    The monitor works well, but UH! OH! I didn't allow for the tilt factor with LCD screens. Have to rework the monitor mount to allow more up and down tilt adjustment:


    CR.

    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-08-2010 at 10:47 AM.
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    Default G540 RACK MOUNT

    A tip: If you have multiple Tormach-tooling drill chuck adapters for your mill:


    And a QC toolpost with several 5/8 straight bore holders:


    You can remove that 5/8" insert:


    This leaves a 3/4 inch bore that is perfect for inserting TTS holders:


    Of course, if you have a 3/4-1 inch straight bore holder, that will work WITHOUT removing the insert.

    This makes a pretty good QC Drill chuck system. If you are going to use it manually, you will need to turn a 60 degree point on some 3/4 inch stock--to center the tool post. For CNC though, it's just QC and go.

    You can also turn down the Irwin-socket wrench tap holders to fit this 3/4 inch bore.

    This rack-mount allows a G540 to live on the tool box wall, just above the computer:


    Three sides of the G540 become heat sinks, while the wing nuts allow easy access.

    It was made in several steps, mostly on the lathe. This operation is a 1/2 inch diameter x 1/4 inch deep pocket cut into 6061 AL:



    CR.

    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-10-2010 at 08:33 AM. Reason: Add Pic
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