On a completely separate note attached is a picture that show how i plan to dial this thing in.
First off im going to have to take a machinist level to the whole table with the rails removed, placing the level on the ground rails. Once the machine is 100% level, i will reinstall the rails using a dial indicator on the front of the first rails to make sure they "start" together. I will then have to use a feeler gauge in between rails sections to make sure the spacing is correct. I will have to use the non permanent loctite on the bolts as well as a TQ wrench to make sure all the rails are evenly torqued. I will also have to use clamps to make sure the rail is fully seated against the milled metal edge.
Once the rails are installed, then comes the gantry. The gantry will have to be slid onto the rails from the front or back. Every bearing is adjustable on the gantry. Attached is a picture of how i plan to level each side of it. I will have to attach a dial indicator on the front and back of each gantry side. I will then place a machinist level on the top of each side. I will lower the top bearings until the machine rests solely on them. Making sure the side of the machine stays level, i then can set each dial indicator to zero out on the precision rail below. I should then at that point be able to slide the gantry up and down the rails. The dial indicators should not move at all if everything is square and level. The bubble on the level also should not move when stationary, it should remain centered regardless the gantry's position on the table.
Once the gantry is level then it comes time to level the carriage, which i have not thought that far into it yet :O
1/4" range x .0005
1" range x .001
Flex Base
Dial indicator base
Machinist level 8"
Feeler gauges
Straight edge
digital caliper
Just a small list of things that will probably help me getting this thing all square. If there is some kind of fancier way with lasers etc please let me know!
Thank you.
Maybe i will give it a shot and see how it goes. The overall unit appears to be solid and well made. The brand Kerk also looks as if they manufacture a high quality product. Worst comes to worst i can just take out the lead screw and modify a ballscrew directly into the unit correct? :POriginally Posted by Al_The_Man
I believe i am going to go ahead with the K2 setup. If the lead screw does not do the job for me i can add a ball screw in later on with some custom machining. I think it should be fine though.
As for the spindle..
I am really on the fence about it. Almost ordered one up today, that is until i started reading the "iso certification", and as Eloid pointed out it was complete bogus.
I think i may get all my Axis's working first without the spindle. After i know the machine works perfect i may look into more of a custom approach trying to retrofit a grizzly R8 spindle head on the thing like Hoss has or something. I saw him modify it for higher RPM's as well..
I guess i will cross that bridge when i get there.
received the new balls for the ball-nut today! =)
I have been looking into a few different options for the cutter:
1. Bosch Colt. Cheapest, Easy, Proven. (Run out may be a problem, & Noisy)
2. Chinese spindle. Cheap, More spendy, cross fingers hope it lasts...
3. Bolt this to the Z axis plate: All in one, Cheap. Uses R8 collet. (may not have enough power?)
http://littlemachineshop.com/product...ory=-269978449
4. Bolt this to the Z plate, and follow hoss's directions when it comes to the automatic tool changer and a big list of other mods he has!!I would have to remove the dovetailed column and bolt the head to the z axis plate. A little more money, but hell it would leave the door open for automatic tool changing which is a huge plus.
http://littlemachineshop.com/product...ory=1963256901
any other options i'm missing? I figure there is no need to rush this at all since whatever i chose now im going to be stuck with for awhile! Might as well explore my options, and take my time!
Last edited by diyengineer; 05-04-2010 at 03:23 AM.
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fys8Gq24tg"]YouTube- Cnc Rebuild Video #16[/nomedia]
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FDwP0rEeAU"]YouTube- Cnc Rebuild Video #17[/nomedia]
Micro updates, nothing to big.
24' Gleason Reel- Cable Carrier 162P-II 1.91R to 3.44R
About 2.5" wide, 1" tall.
Finally got around to unpacking the Chain it came with and WOW.
It is a monster! In perfect shape too!! Going to soap it down and clean it up tonight.
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6F6tzk2_LM"]YouTube- Cnc Rebuild Video #18[/nomedia]
Lightly pressure washed the chain off. It looks brand new!!
When it bends around it appears to have about 5" in between itself while still remaining parallel. Hopefully i can divide that 24' feet amongst all 3 axis's
New work order posted up: Need the carriage machined so i can bolt the new K2 actuator (z axis) to it.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104605
All new bearings, clips, and 3 new servos
Still painting the other smaller parts, like the top and rear panel for the gantry.
They are turning out very nice.
Taking the table top off was a pain! It was epoxied on, but nothing a few chisels and a hammer couldn't break loose. This is the table with the 1/4" plastic off. I measured the thickness of the table below and it is .400". The holes you see in the table are for the vacuum hold down system. They actually used a router to cut a maze in the back of the plastic to distribute the vacuum instead of drilling thousands of holes in the aluminum. Anyways, i will be removing all the old "glue" in the mean time while hopefully i can get some new ideas from everyone in regards to the "Best" table top hold down system..
Also attached is the new clean chain, which i ordered 3 sets of starts and stops from Gleason (yes they still make that same exact chain).
And i attached a picture of the top cover of the gantry getting paint.
I was thinking some kind of T slotted ways, that run th entire length of the table?
I'll work on removing the glue, shoot me any ideas..
Diyengineer,
Keep it simple,
After you get your spindle mounted just use it to surface the aluminum top so its flat then drill and tap a few spots to hold the material you frequently use.
Jeff...
Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish.
Finishing up the top gantry cover paint tonight. Tomorrow i'm going to sand off the old glue/epoxy that previously held on the plastic top.
Update:
Finished painting top, letting dry.
Old servo cooling fans were 120V AC. Going to replace with 12V DC fans. The old fans only outputted 60CFM each, 2 blowing into each motor. I don't know why they had one fan blowing into another.. Maybe it was for backup in case one died? I will be replacing with much HIGHER CFM fans (100-250cfm). Searching for something with a very high work duty rating, 60,000+ hours preferred. (not like it will ever see that many hours, but less of a chance they will fail)
Below is the Wire I'm thinking about using for all the electrical. No reason for going cheap on the cable, Best flexibility and EMI protection possible.
http://cableorganizer.com/igus/cf10-tpe-control-cables/
Sanded, primered, first coat of red. One more coat tomorrow.
Last edited by diyengineer; 05-09-2010 at 06:12 AM.
My plan is to keep the machine as flexible and useful as possible. I truly don't know what sheet sizes i will be consistently using yet on a regular basis. So i would like to make the machine as user friendly as possible. I'm also thinking of in the future if i part ways with the machine, which option will allow the next user as many hold down options as possible. I could always just purchase new plastic and epoxy it down, surface the top of the plastic true, then drill and tap into the plastic not touching my aluminum table below?
Many options.. :O
Is this junk? I could always get a few of those and redo the vacuum system?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Vacuum-hold-down...#ht_2368wt_939
i did the math... they only recommend using it on a 24"x36" table or 864 square inches.. I have over 12,000 square inch workspace.. Meaning i would need about 14 of them...
That killed that idea!
Back to good old bolting it down, which i feel is a more secure method anways.
Too bad, thats a darn good price for that unit, if you get a vane pump like this, make sure you get the filter also.
For that size of table, I have used 10hp minimum, you will need sound proofing also.
Also don't forget you have zone valves on the table.
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
What do you plan on cutting with this thing? At work we have two 40hp pumps to pull through a 5x12 MDF spoilboard. And even with that, it's tricky to keep small parts from moving when you're cutting at 800ipm.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Ya i saw that unit and was impressed, only if i had a mini table. I think ill roll with the bolt downs for now. Anyone know where i can get the T slots?
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zN0TXeVS-g"]YouTube- Cnc Rebuild Video #19[/nomedia]
Update.
Plan on cutting aluminum sheet and copper sheet (.063-1/2")What do you plan on cutting with this thing? At work we have two 40hp pumps to pull through a 5x12 MDF spoilboard. And even with that, it's tricky to keep small parts from moving when you're cutting at 800ipm.
Would steel C channel work for you?
This is square tube with a slot down one side, it is the sort of thing you see used for centenary cable runway etc.
If it works, it may be the cheapest!
http://www.technicor.ca/content/files/6h.pdf
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
I'm guessing it would work, but how "flat" would it really be? Also i assume it is pretty thick stuff, the table alone would eat up most of my z axis.
I was thinking more or less something like this. anyone know of anything cheaper?
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...lter=t%20track
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