Pictorial Guide to Making PCB (DIY)

[abasir]

Attached is my method for making PCB at home. May be it will be of assistance to those wanting to start making PCB at home.

The method uses the laser printer toner transfer with inkjet glossy photo paper as transfer media. I've been making PCB with 12mils tracks/clearance with 100% success.

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[Pythagoras]

Thanks for doing that. I really appreciate you going to the effort for the rest of us.
That is a beautiful guide. Well done

[Mr.Chips]

What kind of glue do you use and which side goies down on the copper sheet, copy paper or photopaper?

How does the image get on the copper?

As you guessed it I'm a newbie in this area.

Thanks
Hager

[TinkerDJ]

Very nice how to. Can you tell me what paper you use?

I tried using kodak paper and it didn't work well at all. Had limited success with hp photo paper. Thanks.

[CJL5585]

1. Will this process work with an inkjet printer?

2. Can you give us more info on the paper required, and also a supplier.

Thanks,
Jerry

[superJOAT]

Thanks for the guide, nicely done.

Jerry, I've read elsewhere that it is the toner that transfers, so it needs to be a laser printer or copy machine.

[OCNC]

Attached is my method for making PCB at home. May be it will be of assistance to those wanting to start making PCB at home.

The method uses the laser printer toner transfer with inkjet glossy photo paper as transfer media. I've been making PCB with 12mils tracks/clearance with 100% success.

Just to clarify... You make a print of the circuit on a full sheet of paper. You then locate over it (register) and glue down the leading edge of a piece of glossy inkjet photo paper. You then re-feed that composite sheet through the printer which gives you the circuit printed on the photo paper. You then heat transfer...etc.

Is this correct?

Chris

[TinkerDJ]

The ones i just made i didn't glue anything. I used a photo copier. So i just used the photo paper and printed my board design directly to it. Seems to have worked. I cleaned the copper board. Dried it then put the photo paper on the board and used an iron. The paper itself stuck right to the board. I haven't cleaned it up totally yet. But it seems to have worked.

[abasir]

What kind of glue do you use and which side goies down on the copper sheet, copy paper or photopaper?

How does the image get on the copper?

As you guessed it I'm a newbie in this area.

Thanks
Hager

Any glue will do (I'm using double sided tape). Print on normal paper first, then glue the photopaper (glossy side up) over the image AND print the artwork again. Remove the photopaper, place the printed side onto the copper and proceed with ironing.

[abasir]

Very nice how to. Can you tell me what paper you use?

I tried using kodak paper and it didn't work well at all. Had limited success with hp photo paper. Thanks.

I'm using EPSON Glossy Photo Paper (120gm) meant for 1440dpi printing.

What is the problem?

If toner is not sticking, increase heat and iron slightly longer.
If toner expands (your tracks gets wider) then the iron is too hot.
Apply good pressure when ironing.

[abasir]

1. Will this process work with an inkjet printer?

2. Can you give us more info on the paper required, and also a supplier.

Thanks,
Jerry

This process WILL NOT work with inkjet printer. The laserprinter or copier toner is made from plastic. Upon heating, it'll melt and sticks to the copper and act as etch resist during etching.

Paper as above reply.

[abasir]

Just to clarify... You make a print of the circuit on a full sheet of paper. You then locate over it (register) and glue down the leading edge of a piece of glossy inkjet photo paper. You then re-feed that composite sheet through the printer which gives you the circuit printed on the photo paper. You then heat transfer...etc.

Is this correct?

Chris

YES... I'll update the guide later incorporating the Q&A here...

[BigDaddyG]

Very Interesting! I have not made a board in years. You got my interest peaked again (just what I need, another project).

[bob a job]

A fantastic way to make boards.
I have got a HP4V LaserJet and at first I purchased the proper sheets from an electronics shop. They are blue with some sort of coating on one side. About 5 A4 sheets for about £15. Well I thought that they were a waste of money. I couldn’t get them to work properly at all. I think the heat has to be spot on.

So I then bought some cheap photo paper Wordtech 180gsm at £4.99 for 30 sheets and they came out perfect.
What I didn’t do was glue the papers. Good Tip abasir this is a must. By doing this you can cut the sheets to the size you want so there is no waist. Plus it will go through the printer better.

[BobLWeiss]

I have been doing this way for awhile without problems, its the best way yet but why do you print it first then refeed it through the printer with glossy paper on top? I use Staples Picture Paper (glossy) and print directly to that with the laser printer, then iron that onto the copper. Works every time.

[bob a job]

BobLWeiss
The photo paper would not pickup properly though the printer. That’s the only problem I had. So now as abasirs way, the plain paper goes through at the start easier and because the photo paper is stuck to it, it goes with it. Maybe the thickness of paper?

[BobLWeiss]

Yeah I could see that as a problem for some printers, I have tried the Staples paper on a couple different ones and had no problems. Have to manually feed it though. Just trying to avoid adding another step. I would tell everyone to try feeding the glossy paper first and if their printer can't handle it then go the other route.

[mvaughn]

I have done this process several times for many projects.

I have found that the cheapest clay photo paper from staples works the best.

You don't need to use and tape or glue unless you are doing some double sided PCB etchings. When you touch the iron to the paper it will bond with the copper and hold itself in place.

After you are done ironing the paper and think you have a good bond, soak the PCB and paper in water for at least 30 minutes.... you want it to practically fall of by itself. Don't rush this phase!

[abasir]

BobLWeiss
The photo paper would not pickup properly though the printer. That’s the only problem I had. So now as abasirs way, the plain paper goes through at the start easier and because the photo paper is stuck to it, it goes with it. Maybe the thickness of paper?

I do it to save the higher priced photopaper. My circuits normally 4x6 so putting a full page through would be a waste. I normally print the artwork about 1/3 page away from the top of page and like Bob says, the printer picks up the page easily without fail or problems.

[abasir]

1. You don't need to use and tape or glue unless you are doing some double sided PCB etchings. When you touch the iron to the paper it will bond with the copper and hold itself in place.

2. After you are done ironing the paper and think you have a good bond, soak the PCB and paper in water for at least 30 minutes.... you want it to practically fall of by itself. Don't rush this phase!

1. I glue during printing phase only... to save paper
2. I cannot wait 30 mins... that's why I rush with the toothbrush... I guess my patience ran away long time ago If the PCB is properly ironed, soft toothbrush will not remove any toner.